Family Hike to Black Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park

Today there is an afternoon thunderstorm rolling through and I’m attempting to catch up on laundry, but in between loads, I wanted to share about a recent hike our family took to Black Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado.

Navigating the Popular Bear Lake Road

The most direct route to Black Lake starts at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead. There is a small parking lot that filled up before we arrived, so we headed further up to Bear Lake and lucked out by finding a spot. These fill up quickly! Another option is parking at the Park and Ride lot and taking the free shuttle. The shuttles start at 6:30 each morning and go through 7:30 pm between May 22nd and October 18th. You can find out more information about the shuttle buses on the park’s website.

Because this hike is located in the most popular area of the park, we had to get a timed-entry + Bear Lake Road reservation through recreation.gov.

Black Lake vs. Sky Pond

There are so many hikes to choose from in the Bear Lake area. We chose Black Lake because we recently hiked up Mount Ida which is a challenging summit hike with sweeping views. The hike to Mount Ida is mostly above tree-line. For our next hike, we craved a contrast. The hike to Black Lake is a moderately difficult hike with a round trip distance of 9.4 miles+ according to our essential guide by Erik Stensland. It features lush forests = more shade, beautiful alpine lakes, wildflowers, and several waterfalls.

Another awesome hike that delivers similar features is Sky Pond. I felt that Black Lake was a safer, slightly easier option to do with our kids. With Sky Pond you are basically climbing on steep, wet rocks and with Black Lake it is much easier to avoid wet rocks (in my experience).

I’ve hiked both hikes with my husband and wrote about our experience in previous posts:

Highlight Hike: Sky Pond in Rocky Mountain National Park

Black Lake Hike in Rocky Mountain National Park

Bear Lake Trail Head

Bear Lake
Bear Lake

Bear Lake wasn’t technically on our route, but we couldn’t miss an opportunity to take in the view of the alpine lake with Hallett Peak in the background.

Alberta Falls

We retraced our steps and officially started our hike to Black Lake by following signage towards Alberta Falls arriving at 7:31AM with no other visitors in sight.

Alberta Falls
Alberta Falls

Mills Lake

The next destination on our hike was Mills Lake which has been a family-favorite for years! On this trip, we enjoyed spotting many trout in the clear waters of the mountain lake.

Mills Lake
Mills Lake
Mills Lake

Be Aware of Aggressive Elk

Here we met a helpful local women who told us about an aggressive female elk she recently encountered in the meadow near Black Lake. ‘Elk calves are born from late May into June,’ according to the National Park Service, ‘Cows are extremely protective of their calves so use caution around elk at this time of year.’

I love the advice from a local expert who says, if you feel like you are giving the elk enough space – double or triple it. (Estes Park Police warn of aggressive cow elk after attack, 9News)

Safety in Numbers: When we are hiking in nature, we are always are on the look out for wild animals. We tell our girls that we have to remain close to each other when hiking. For a variety of safety reasons, kids shouldn’t be running ahead on trails.

Jewel Lake

After eating snacks and taking in the views from Mills Lake, we continued along the trail until we reached Jewel Lake which can be easy to miss because it seems to flow right into Mills. The views from this peaceful spot were incredible.

Jewel Lake
Jewel Lake

Wildflowers including columbine dotted the meadow as we continued on the hike. We passed over several wooden walkways. The trail becomes noticeably more rugged after Mills Lake. I tripped over a root on my way back down the trail, but thankfully I caught myself.

Hike up to Black Lake
Hike up to Black Lake

Waterfalls

We walked alongside waterfalls as we approached Black Lake. For me, this is a highlight of this hike.

hike up to black lake in rmnp
Hike up to Black Lake in RMNP
Waterfall near Black Lake
Ribbon Falls
Ribbon Falls

Black Lake

Black Lake
Black Lake

At 10:00AM (after several stops along the way) we reached our destination. We were lucky to arrive on a beautiful, clear morning with few pesky mosquitos due to a crisp, light breeze. The elevation is 10,611 feet.

Return Hike

I already mentioned tripping on my way back down the trail, so keep an eye out for rocks and roots as you go down. This can be difficult when surrounded by beautiful scenery. I’m easily distracted by cute chipmunks, wildflowers, and sweeping views.

5 Top Takeaways for Hiking to Black Lake

  1. Get a timed entry permit that includes access to Bear Lake Road. Have this out and ready along with your national park pass and ID when you arrive at the park entrance.
  2. Arrive during your designated window – preferably an early morning window that will allow you time to arrive at Black Lake before afternoon storms which are common.
  3. Wear sunscreen and insect repellant along with comfortable hiking shoes to help with rocky terrain. Bring lots of water and snacks. Wear layers.
  4. Choose this hike after you are acclimated to the high elevation. Even though it is rated at moderate, I was huffing and puffing up the steep hills.
  5. Respect wildlife by keeping your distance. Mama elk can be fierce!

Getting the Kids’ Opinions

Finally, I wanted to share my daughters’ review of this hike. I asked them a few questions and this is what they have to say:

What was your favorite part about the hike to Black Lake?

The waterfall and playing around on rocks near Mills Lake

What was your least favorite part about the hike to Black Lake?

The rocky way back. There were a lot of annoying tree branches and it was busy (on the trail).

Would you say the hike was worth it? Do you mind getting up early or hiking nearly 10 miles?

It was worth it, you just need to know what you are in for.

What hike do you want to do next?

Flattop Mountain or Chasm Lake

Celebrating my Husband’s 40th Birthday in Rocky Mountain National Park

I can’t think of a better place to spend a milestone birthday than my husband’s favorite mountain town, Estes Park, CO. His birthday is close to Memorial Day, and right after school ended for the year, so we had many reasons to celebrate and rest after the end-of-school-year sprint. Today I’m going to share the hikes we enjoyed and the wildlife we spotted on our recent trip.

Memorial Day Adventures in Rocky Mountains

Memorial Day feels like the unofficial start to summer, but when you come to the mountains, you can still expect cool air and some snow, especially at higher elevations. We chose our hikes based on their relatively lower elevations and current trail status. Expect rapid weather changes. It’s always best to start hikes in the morning, so you are below treeline before common afternoon thunderstorms.

Hiking Gear to Pack

  • Waterproof hiking boots – after checking trail conditions we determined that we didn’t need extra traction like Yaktrax which can be helpful when the trails have more snow and ice.
  • Hiking socks -I can’t say enough about wool hiking socks. Each time I forget them, I regret my decision. They make such a difference!
  • Adjustable poles – I find trekking poles are helpful on my way back down mountains to absorb impact on my knees.
  • Small hiking backpacks – We packed essentials like snacks, water, and sunscreen.
  • Rain jacket and layers
  • Sunglasses and/or hat
  • Breathable quick-dry fabrics

Deer Mountain

Along with having stunning views and being one of the more moderate summit hikes in the park, Deer Mountain is also one of the best year-round options due to its proximity to the Fall River entrance and the fact that the snow tends to blow off/melt out earlier here than in some of the other popular trailhead areas, such as Bear Lake and Glacier Gorge. It’s roughly 6.2 miles round-trip and gains just over 1,200 feet of elevation.

Choose this hike if you want a family-friendly summit hike with views.

Deer Mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park
Deer Mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park

Ouzel Falls

Ouzel Falls is located in the Wild Basin area of Rocky Mountain National Park. This area is often less crowded and lower in elevation than the Bear Lake area. The hike to Ouzel Falls begins at 8,500 ft of elevation and gains 950 ft. The total distance is 5.4 miles. Before arriving at Ouzel Falls, the trail passes Copeland Falls and the Calypso Cascades, which are both beautiful destinations on their own.

Ouzel Falls Wild Basin Rocky Mountain National Park
Ouzel Falls Wild Basin Rocky Mountain National Park

Choose this hike if you love lush forests and waterfalls. If you prefer taking your time and savoring several destinations along the way, this might be your new favorite hike.

Gem Lake

This hike begins at the Lumpy Ridge trailhead. We like the boulders and unique rock formations that give us an excuse to catch our breath and take photos along the way. Plus, the views looking back over Estes Park and the mountain range beyond, wow! This is a moderately strenuous hike because of the steep steps that lead up to the lake, but the short distance of 1.8 miles each way made it pretty attainable.

Gem Lake Rocky Mountain National Park
Gem Lake Rocky Mountain National Park

We were feeling good, so we added the Lumpy Ridge Loop, which made this hike a little over 4 miles.

Twin Owls Rock Formations Rocky Mountain National Park
Twin Owls in Lumpy Ridge

Choose this hike if you want a short, rewarding experience, and pair it with a fun reward like ice cream in Estes Park.

Bierstadt Lake

The trail to Bierstadt Lake is 1.4 miles each way, starting at the Bierstadt Lake Trail Head, located in the Bear Lake Area. If you aren’t familiar, getting a park pass and a timed-entry pass is often necessary throughout the park, but it mostly impacts access to trails in this popular area. We were able to make a reservation the evening before (tickets for the following day are released at 7 pm). More information about the entry system is available on Recreation.gov.

The trail up to Bierstadt Lake gains 566 ft. of elevation along several switchbacks. You can add on extra mileage by walking around the lake, which we recommend to get the best views of Flattop Mountain and Hallett Peak.

Bierstadt Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park
Bierstadt Lake

Choose this hike if you want it all – views, an alpine lake, and towering pines.

Twin Sisters

After several days acclimating to the elevation and hiking 4-6 mile hikes, we decided Twin Sisters would be a great grand finale hike on my husband’s birthday. Twin Sisters trail head is located six miles south of Estes Park on Highway 7.

Round trip, it is about 7 miles reaching 11,413 ft of elevation on the West Summit, a gain of 2,253 ft. The East Summit is slightly higher, but we decided to shorten the trip this time by going up just one side. 

Twin Sisters Rocky Mountain National Park
Twin Sisters

Choose this hike if you feel ready for a challenge and as a warm-up to harder summit hikes like Flattop Mountain and Hallett Peak.

Shorter Hikes

Besides the hikes mentioned, we also enjoyed strolls around Lily Lake, Sprague Lake, and the Estes Park Riverwalk in downtown.

Wildlife Spotting

In this post, I want to share a few of the animals we spotted on our latest trip, rather than a full list of all the animals you might see in the park and when/where you might spot them. So, if you have any wildlife tips or questions, please post in the comments.

Moose

On this trip we spotted several moose, including this guy near Sheep Lakes where there is a pull-off and no hiking is required.

Moose Near Sheep Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park
Moose in Rocky Mountain National Park

Velvet Elk

I think elk are fascinating animals, and you may notice this time of year their antlers look fuzzy. Why? Here are a few fun facts I found on the US Fish and Wildlife Service’s website:

  • Antlers are the fastest bone growth in the world
  • Immature antlers are covered in skin with a short, dense fur called velvet
  • Elk antlers grow about an inch per day
Elk Rocky Mountain National Park
Elk in Rocky Mountain National Park

Salamanders

Another cool animal species we spotted was the tiger salamander in Lily Lake. My daughters think they look like axolotls. I found an interesting article about the amazing amphibians on the national park’s website.

Final Thoughts

I love that my husband wanted to spend his 40th birthday doing something he loves (hiking) in a beautiful and meaningful place with our family. It’s hard to capture the silliness and joyful energy that my daughters had during our trip, but it felt so healthy and refreshing after a busy spring.

I hope your summer is off to a great start, too. I would love to hear about your favorite hikes! Please share what hike we should try on our next trip in the comments.

Use Rocky Mountain National Park’s Free Shuttle for an Epic Thru-Hike from Bear Lake to the Fern Lake Trailhead

Did you know that Rocky Mountain National Park runs a free shuttle service to many of its most popular destinations from May 23 to October 19? Last summer, our family decided to use the shuttle to hike from Bear Lake to the Fern Lake Trailhead (9.2 miles), and we hopped on the shuttle to ride back up.

Rocky Mountain National Park Shuttles

The Bear Lake Route includes stops at Park & Ride, Bierstadt Lake Trailhead, Glacier Gorge Trailhead, and Bear Lake. You can expect buses to arrive every 10-15 minutes from 6:30 am to 7:30 pm.

The Moraine Park Shuttle Route includes stops at Park & Ride, Sprague Lake/Glacier Creek Stables, Glacier Basin Campground, Hollowell Park, Tuxedo Park, Moraine Park Campground, Cub Lake Trailhead, and Fern Lake Bus Stop. Buses run every 60 minutes.

For this route, we parked our vehicle at the Park & Ride lot, hopped on the Bear Lake Shuttle and got off at Bear Lake to begin this hike. At the end, we walked from the Fern Lake Trailhead to the Fern Lake Bus stop and took the Moraine Park Shuttle back to Park & Ride. You can find maps and more information here.

Bear Lake

Bear Lake is an iconic and popular destination. The elevation at Bear Lake is 9,475 ft. Although the Bear Lake area is very busy, this route down to Lake Odessa can be much more peaceful.

bear lake in the snow
Bear Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park (taken on previous trip)

We veered off the Bear Lake loop trail towards the Flattop Mountain and Odessa Lake trail. This part of the trail gains elevation. We followed the signs towards Odessa Lake.

We hiked on July 13th. Our daughters were happy to see a few spots of snow to slip around on, but mostly the trails were cleared of winter snow. The National Park website warns, ‘This trail often has treacherous snow fields into late-June and early July. Ask a Ranger about trail conditions before committing to this hike.’ There are ranger stations at the park entrances as well as at Bear Lake.

With the snowmelt, we encountered pesky mosquitoes on this section of the trail.

Two Rivers Lake and Lake Helene

Rockymountainhikingtrails.com describes this somewhat confusing section of the trail, ‘Roughly 3.2 miles from the trailhead hikers will arrive at an unmarked side trail that leads to Lake Helene on your left. Immediately past this junction the main trail makes a sharp turn to the right, and begins descending rapidly. If you’ve reached this point you’ve obviously gone too far. It’s unclear why the national park doesn’t have a trail marker here, but Lake Helene should not be passed. If anything, this is a great place to take a short break.’

We decided to take their advice by adding Lake Helene on as a short snack break spot.

Rocky Mountain National Park Hike to Alpine Lake
Rocky Mountain National Park Hike to Alpine Lake

Heading Down Odessa Gorge

Rocky Mountain National Park Hike to Alpine Lake
Family on Rocky Mountain National Park Hike to Alpine Lake

Lake Odessa

This is the first time we hiked to Lake Odessa. We loved the wildflowers along the trail leading up to it, the wooden bridge we crossed on the way, and the clear waters of this alpine lake. It was a serene, magical spot.

Rocky Mountain National Park Hike to Alpine Lake
Lake Odessa in Rocky Mountain National Park
Lake Odessa in Rocky Mountain National Park
Hiking along Mountain Stream from Lake Odessa in Rocky Mountain National Park

At this point, we could turn back up toward Bear Lake, and the hike would have been 8.8 miles round-trip. We decided to continue down toward Fern Lake.

Fern Lake

Fern Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park

I’m posting this picture of the ‘Privy’ or outdoor basic toilet we found near Fern Lake because if you’ve ever hiked with kids, you know it is always helpful to know where to go.

Fern Lake campground and Privy

Damage from East Troublesome Fire

Around Fern Lake, there is visible damage from the 2020 wildfires. We enjoyed the beautiful wildflowers that flourish in the burn area; however, this part of the trail felt very hot from the lack of shade.

Wildfire damage near Fern Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park

Fern Falls

I love Fern Falls, you can feel the cool mist as the water pours down the mountainside. It’s such a welcome feeling!

Fern Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park

The Pool

The Pool felt like the (almost) finish line. From here, we had 1.7 miles to the trailhead. One additional feature to look forward to on the way is Arch Rocks.

Picture of The Pool in Rocky Mountain National Park

Once we got to the Fern Lake trailhead, we had to walk along the road for nearly a mile to the Fern Lake bus stop and wait for 30-50 minutes for the shuttle. A year later, I can’t remember exactly how long we waited, but it felt like a long time! We were hot, dusty, and exhausted at this point.

Overall, this hike was a wonderful way to see Bear Lake, Lake Helene, Lake Odessa, Fern Lake, Fern Falls, The Pool, Arch Rocks, and more in 9.2+ (mostly) downhill miles.

What’s your favorite hike in Rocky Mountain National Park? Please post in the comments about the hikes we should try this summer.

Helpful Links & Gear:

RMNP Maps

AllTrails.com

Hiking Backpack with Hydration Pack

UV Protection sunglasses

Timberline Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park

Daily writing prompt
What are your daily habits?

This summer I’ve gotten into the daily habit of taking an evening walk after dinner with my husband (and our dog). I love this habit because it’s a healthy thing to do physically and it’s a great way to connect. It feels like a mini-date.

Another habit I’m focusing on this summer is getting out in nature as much as possible. Our favorite way to do that is to go on family hikes. Today I wanted to share a hike we did last July in Rocky Mountain National Park.

The hike to Timberline Falls is 8.1 miles round-trip. You can start at the Bear Lake trailhead or Glacier Gorge. Both require a timed-entry permit from May 24 through mid-October.

From the trailhead, the first major landmark is Alberta Falls which is less than a mile. We started our hike around 7:30 in the morning. This area of the park fills up fast, so the earlier you get there the more enjoyable the falls will be. (Unless you are a big fan of crowds with selfie sticks).

We continued our hike up towards Loch Vale, a clear and serene alpine lake. This was a great spot for us to take a snack break. There are beautiful trout in the lake. I imagine this would be an idyllic fishing spot.

The trail follows alongside the Loch – which is much longer than it initially looks. Eventually, we walked through a marshy area where we spotted a deer right off the trail. That last bit of this hike is a rock staircase that goes straight up. It’s a thigh burner.

Our final obstacle was an unexpected snow field that stretched before the quick scramble to Timberline Falls.

But we didn’t make it to Timberline Falls. With all the snow, ice, and flowing water we decided it wasn’t worth climbing up. It’s always slightly disappointing when you turn back early, especially when the end is in sight, but I’ve never regretted my decision to do so.

My girls thought it was epic to slide back down in the snow.

I hope you enjoyed reading about one of our favorite hikes in Rocky Mountain National Park. I’ve posted links below that would be helpful if you are interested in exploring this awesome trail yourself.

Helpful Links:

Timerline Falls trail info from RockyMountainHikingTrails.com

AllTrails.com trip reports from fellow hikers.

Rocky Mountain National Park Timed Entry

Rocky Mountaion National Park Fishing guidelines

Our Hike to Sky Pond which goes up, over, and through Timberline Falls