Fern Lake

Use Rocky Mountain National Park’s Free Shuttle for an Epic Thru-Hike from Bear Lake to the Fern Lake Trailhead

Did you know that Rocky Mountain National Park runs a free shuttle service to many of its most popular destinations from May 23 to October 19? Last summer, our family decided to use the shuttle to hike from Bear Lake to the Fern Lake Trailhead (9.2 miles), and we hopped on the shuttle to ride back up.

Rocky Mountain National Park Shuttles

The Bear Lake Route includes stops at Park & Ride, Bierstadt Lake Trailhead, Glacier Gorge Trailhead, and Bear Lake. You can expect buses to arrive every 10-15 minutes from 6:30 am to 7:30 pm.

The Moraine Park Shuttle Route includes stops at Park & Ride, Sprague Lake/Glacier Creek Stables, Glacier Basin Campground, Hollowell Park, Tuxedo Park, Moraine Park Campground, Cub Lake Trailhead, and Fern Lake Bus Stop. Buses run every 60 minutes.

For this route, we parked our vehicle at the Park & Ride lot, hopped on the Bear Lake Shuttle and got off at Bear Lake to begin this hike. At the end, we walked from the Fern Lake Trailhead to the Fern Lake Bus stop and took the Moraine Park Shuttle back to Park & Ride. You can find maps and more information here.

Bear Lake

Bear Lake is an iconic and popular destination. The elevation at Bear Lake is 9,475 ft. Although the Bear Lake area is very busy, this route down to Lake Odessa can be much more peaceful.

We veered off the Bear Lake loop trail towards the Flattop Mountain and Odessa Lake trail. This part of the trail gains elevation. We followed the signs towards Odessa Lake.

We hiked on July 13th. Our daughters were happy to see a few spots of snow to slip around on, but mostly the trails were cleared of winter snow. The National Park website warns, ‘This trail often has treacherous snow fields into late-June and early July. Ask a Ranger about trail conditions before committing to this hike.’ There are ranger stations at the park entrances as well as at Bear Lake.

With the snowmelt, we encountered pesky mosquitoes on this section of the trail.

Two Rivers Lake and Lake Helene

Rockymountainhikingtrails.com describes this somewhat confusing section of the trail, ‘Roughly 3.2 miles from the trailhead hikers will arrive at an unmarked side trail that leads to Lake Helene on your left. Immediately past this junction the main trail makes a sharp turn to the right, and begins descending rapidly. If you’ve reached this point you’ve obviously gone too far. It’s unclear why the national park doesn’t have a trail marker here, but Lake Helene should not be passed. If anything, this is a great place to take a short break.’

We decided to take their advice by adding Lake Helene on as a short snack break spot.

Rocky Mountain National Park Hike to Alpine Lake

Heading Down Odessa Gorge

Family on Rocky Mountain National Park Hike to Alpine Lake

Lake Odessa

This is the first time we hiked to Lake Odessa. We loved the wildflowers along the trail leading up to it, the wooden bridge we crossed on the way, and the clear waters of this alpine lake. It was a serene, magical spot.

Lake Odessa in Rocky Mountain National Park

Hiking along Mountain Stream from Lake Odessa in Rocky Mountain National Park

At this point, we could turn back up toward Bear Lake, and the hike would have been 8.8 miles round-trip. We decided to continue down toward Fern Lake.

I’m posting this picture of the ‘Privy’ or outdoor basic toilet we found near Fern Lake because if you’ve ever hiked with kids, you know it is always helpful to know where to go.

Damage from East Troublesome Fire

Around Fern Lake, there is visible damage from the 2020 wildfires. We enjoyed the beautiful wildflowers that flourish in the burn area; however, this part of the trail felt very hot from the lack of shade.

Wildfire damage near Fern Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park

Fern Falls

I love Fern Falls, you can feel the cool mist as the water pours down the mountainside. It’s such a welcome feeling!

The Pool

The Pool felt like the (almost) finish line. From here, we had 1.7 miles to the trailhead. One additional feature to look forward to on the way is Arch Rocks.

Once we got to the Fern Lake trailhead, we had to walk along the road for nearly a mile to the Fern Lake bus stop and wait for 30-50 minutes for the shuttle. A year later, I can’t remember exactly how long we waited, but it felt like a long time! We were hot, dusty, and exhausted at this point.

Overall, this hike was a wonderful way to see Bear Lake, Lake Helene, Lake Odessa, Fern Lake, Fern Falls, The Pool, Arch Rocks, and more in 9.2+ (mostly) downhill miles.

What’s your favorite hike in Rocky Mountain National Park? Please post in the comments about the hikes we should try this summer.

Helpful Links & Gear:

RMNP Maps

AllTrails.com

Hiking Backpack with Hydration Pack

UV Protection sunglasses

Fern Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park

“Ultimately, it is your commitment to the process that will determine your progress.” James Clear, author of Atomic Habits.

I still can’t believe my 6-year-old and 8-year-old daughters hiked the 7.6-mile roundtrip trek up to Fern Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park AND enjoy it.

We’ve been coming to Rocky Mountain National Park since they were babies. For a long time, it felt like we would never be able to hike beyond a mile or two. That’s one of the reasons I liked the Fern Lake trail when they were younger. There are several destinations along the way including Arch Rocks, The Pool, and Fern Falls. I’ve posted pictures of each below. When we had a fussy baby, or an impatient toddler, we could turn around at these points and still feel like we accomplished something.

Another reason I like the Fern Lake trail is because it tends to melt out earlier in the season compared to other higher hikes. The trail begins at 8,155 ft.

In early June, we spotted several elk and moose. Spotting three moose on a trail was a first for us. Other hikers who posted on AllTrails.com also reported ‘moose traffic jams’.

Arch Rocks

Between the animal spotting and wildflowers, the trail was wonderful even before we arrived at Arch Rocks. The journey to Arch Rocks is 1.2 miles from the trailhead.

The trail follows the Big Thompson River. In spring and early summer, it is common to spot extra waterfalls flowing in.

The pool

At 1.7 miles from the trailhead, you reach a wooden bridge that crosses over The Pool. This destination is one of our favorite 2-4 mile hikes in the park.

We continued beyond The Pool to Fern Falls which is a little under a mile and gains 400 feet of elevation.

Rocky mountain national park fire damage

This section of the hike gets pretty sad because a lot of the forest was damaged by wildfires.

Fern Falls

I wish I could insert a special effect that would allow you to feel the cool mist. Even a video of Fern Falls doesn’t do it justice.

We’ve never made it past Fern Falls, but after a quick snack break, we decided to continue hiking up to Fern Lake. There were small patches of snow along the way, but we were able to do it without equipment beyond waterproof hiking boots. Hiking poles would have been helpful in some spots.

Our girls love hiking in snow! We packed layers that we could easily take on and off along the trail as we went. The temperature dropped noteably right before we reached Fern Lake. We gained a total of 1,380 feet of elevation.

I love hiking to lakes in Rocky Mountain National Park, and this new-to-me lake was stunning.

My older daughter’s advice to kids who want to hike is ‘Don’t give up. Keep on trying – it will be worth it.’

On our way back down the trail, we spotted a couple moose and a elk. Can you see the elk hidding among the trees in the photo of my daughter below? When I asked her advice to other kids who want to hike she said, ‘there is still beauty on the way down’.

This Father’s Day weekend, we want to give a gold star to my husband whose ‘commitment to the process’ is starting to pay off. We appreciate him getting us out in the mountains and among the trees!

helpful inforMation

How do you get to Fern Lake Trailhead?

The National Park Service provides directions to the trailhead as:

From Beaver Meadows Visitor Center follow Hwy 36 west to Bear Lake Road (approximately 1.3 miles). Turn left onto Bear Lake Road and follow for 1.3 miles, then turn right onto Moraine Park Campground Road. After a short distance turn left at a sign indicating that Riding Stable and Trailheads are ahead. This road will take you along the edge of Moraine Park to the TH. The TH is at the end of the road.

What entrance should I use into Rocky Mountain National Park?

As of 6/16/23: NPS states that Fall River Entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park is under construction so only one lane is open to enter. Visitors are encouraged to avoid the Fall River Entrance and use the Beaver Meadows Entrance via U.S. Hwy 36.

Do I need a reservation to hike in Rocky Mountain National Park?

The Fern Lake hike is in the Bear Lake Corridor, so you must have both a pass into the park and a timed-entry permit called Park Access Plus between 5am and 6pm. The reservations can be made at Recreation.gov. Reservations typically open a month in advance. Some of the reservations open up the night before at 5:00 pm. When we are hoping to get a pass for the next day, we set an alarm on our phone so we can get on the site right at 5:00 before they all sell out. This video helps explain the system in more detail.

Where should I go if I can’t get a Park Access Plus reservation?

There are a lot of great options! Some of our favorites include:

Lily Lake, Gem Lake, Calypso Cascades in Wild Basin, Deer Mountain, Twin Sisters Peaks, or the Ute Trail.

Hike to Arch Rocks and The Pool in Rocky Mountain National Park

The hike to The Pool in Rocky Mountain National Park is one of our favorite early season hikes. It’s lower starting elevation (8,150 ft) typically means there is less snow than other areas of the park.

The hike begins at the Fern Lake trail head. There is a small non-paved parking area. The road is narrow for two-way vehicle traffic. There is shuttle service and some additional parking .8 miles away from the trail head.

On our late-May hike we enjoyed spotting spring wildflowers, a busy humming bird, and a garter snake.

Arch rocks

40 foot vertical rocks called Arch Rocks are a main attraction along the way to The Pool. The rocks are 1.2 miles from the trail head.

big thompson river

Walking along the Big Thompson River is another highlight of this hike.

The Pool

A wooden bridge crosses over the river. This video shows the water gathering and powerfully flowing into the Big Thompson River. The Pool is 1.7 miles from the Fern Lake trail head. If you turn around at this point, the hike is a total of 3.4 miles. On this trip, we chose to turn around at this point.

Love loop hikes? From The Pool you can split off towards Cub Lake and head back around to the Cub Lake trail head. The final section of the hike between the Cub Lake trail head and the Fern Lake trail head is on a connecting road. This loop is 6 miles.

Fern Falls

Another option to continue the hike is to make your way up to Fern Falls. To hike to the waterfall, you will add approximately 1 mile each way. Most of this section is uphill. If you are up for the challenge, the waterfall is worth the effort!

Fantastic Family Hike to Fern Falls

Fern Falls with a Fussy Baby

fern lake

The name sake of this trail is Fern Lake, which is 3.8 miles from the trail head. It has spectacular views of Notch Top mountain.

The Fern Lake trail head is a launching point to many memorable destinations in Rocky Mountain National Park including Arch Rocks, The Pool, Fern Falls and Fern Lake.

on my mind: Ticks in Rocky Mountain National park

Well, it happened! After five years of living tick free, we found several ticks on my daughter during our most recent trip to Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes Park, Colorado. We were playing in some areas that had tall grass, so it’s not very surprising, but I just wanted to take this opportunity to remind everyone who is out enjoying the great outdoors to be checking themselves and their kids. Here is some additional information about ticks found in RMNP.

Make your reservations now: Trail Ridge Road is Open

Trail Ridge Road is a scenic highway that connects Estes Park, Colorado to Grand Lake, Colorado. The road is located within Rocky Mountain National Park, so a park pass and time-entry permit are required to travel on this scenic roadway which will take you above tree-line and into the alpine tundra. Trail Ridge Road opened on June 4, 2020. Here is an article from Estes Park News about the annual ribbon cutting celebration.

New! Visitors to Rocky Mountain National Park can obtain a time-entry permit through Recreation.gov.

8 Must-See Attractions in Rocky Mountain National Park

May 3 – 9, 2020 is National Travel and Tourism week. Given our current travel restrictions in the United States, the U.S. Travel Association decided on the theme of ‘the Spirit of Travel cannot be broken.’

Since I heard the theme, I’ve been contemplating what the ‘spirit of travel’ means to me. I ran across this quote from novelist Anita Desai.

“Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.”
Anita Desai

That’s it. I feel that a part of me is missing right now. The part of me that likes to travel, explore, find adventure, and plan trips. In a world where I can’t go to the grocery store without a face mask on, it seems silly to miss travel as much as I do. But, I do!

Must-See Attractions in Rocky Mountain National Park

It’s comforting to think the places you love become a part of who you are. In honor of travel week, I put together a list of must-see attractions in Rocky Mountain National Park.

This list includes the places I feel best represent the diverse landscapes of Rocky Mountain National Park. I chose spots that are accessible to most travelers (you don’t have to walk 10 miles to see them). Together, they showcase the dynamic spirit of Rocky Mountain National Park.

Bear Lake

Bear Lake is a popular destination in Rocky Mountain National Park. The lake sits at 9,475 ft in elevation. Behind the lake, you can see an open view of Hallett Peak. Our kids love walking the half mile loop around Bear Lake. Starting from the Bear Lake trail head, hikers can access destinations like Dream Lake, Emerald Lake, and Hallett Peak.

Alberta Falls

You can hike to Alberta Falls from Bear Lake, but the shortest route starts from the Glacier Gorge trail head. The hike to the waterfall is less than a mile. After enjoying the magnificent waterfall, you can continue on to Mills Lake, The Loch, or even Sky Pond.

Moraine Park

Moraine Park is one of our favorite places in RMNP to spot herds of elk. The Big Thompson River winds through the valley. Compared to other areas of the park, Moraine Valley is lower in elevation, so we typically choose hikes in this area when we are acclimating to high altitude. I recommend a hike to The Pool which leaves from the Fern Lake trail head or a hike to Cub Lake which starts at the Cub Lake trail head.

Gem Lake Trail

The Gem Lake trail begins at the Lumpy Ridge trail head. This area has unique rock formations that attract skilled rock climbers. This trail offers views of the Estes Valley and Rocky Mountains that are stunning. Another hike we enjoy in the Lumpy Ridge area is the Black Canyon trail.

Wild Basin

The Wild Basin of Rocky Mountain National Park feels a bit more rugged. You will find towering trees, vibrant wildflowers, and waterfalls. From the Wild Basin trail head, you can hike to Copeland Falls, Calypso Cascades, and Ouzel Falls.

Trail Ridge Road

Trail Ridge Road is a scenic highway that connects Estes Park, Colorado to Grand Lake, Colorado. Along the way, there are several places to pull off to take in the sweeping views of the tundra. On this road trip, you will reach over 12,000 ft in elevation! The Alpine Visitor Center is a great place to stop for a restroom break, snack, souvenir shopping, and to learn more about the unique landscape.

Adams Falls

Adams Falls is located on the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park near the town of Grand Lake, Colorado. The hike to Adams Falls is only .3 miles each way. There is a viewing deck for visitors to see the falls from. From this spot, you can continue on to beautiful destinations like the East Meadow.

Longs Peak Viewpoint

Take a drive down Highway 7, and you will come to a vantage point of Longs Peak that is worth stopping to appreciate. At 14,259 feet in elevation, Longs Peak is the highest summit in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Learn more about Travel and Tourism week here.

Learn more about the destinations mentioned in this article

Bear Lake: Bear Lake, Dream Lake, Hallett Peak

Alberta Falls: Alberta Falls, Mills Lake, Sky Pond

Moraine Park: Moraine Park, Cub Lake, The Pool, Fern Falls

Gem Lake: Gem Lake, Black Canyon Trail

Wild Basin: Copeland Falls, Calypso Cascades and Ouzel Falls, Finch Lake TH

Trail Ridge Road: Alpine Ridge Trail, Ute Trail

Adams Falls: Adams Falls and East Meadow, (video)

Longs Peak: The Keyhole

Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the places I am missing most. It is a part of me. Ocean views, mountain town, bustling city, desert landscape… what destination are you missing most? I hope you share in the comments.